

The business, led by Jamie Barber and Ed Standring, credited its performance to keeping the Haché business trading throughout the year with a pivot to delivery and take-away resulting in a five-fold increase in sales. In what it describes as an ‘extraordinary year’, the 12-strong group, comprising Hush Mayfair, Brazilian food concept Cabana and burger brand Haché, says that a combination of tight controls, landlord negotiations and government support mitigated the Collection’s EBITDA loss to just £388,915 from £645,283 the previous year.

Perfectly cooked, the fragrant tiger prawns are served whole with the heads demanding for the luscious juice to be slurped, much to the disgust of nearby tables, complemented by a subtle chilli dressing and burnt lime which neutralises some of the chilli heat. Far better is a simple pandemonium of prawns aggressively cooked over the plancha grill (£14). With such harsh lactic acid, the yoghurt instead tastes of soured goat’s cheese. An unsurprisingly prized ingredient – expensive and arduous to prepare – this dish presents nuggets of deep-fried artichoke heart, accompanied by an aioli spiked with lemon juice.Īn all-time favourite ingredient of mine, the octopus (£14) at Hush is cooked remarkably well, though the delicate cephalopod is completely overwhelmed by a bed of smoked cauliflower, ginger and yoghurt. Artichokes Milanese (£12), on the other hand, are highly recommended over a scallop dish. Although less prettily presented than most, the steak tartare is rife with capers, tabasco and generous seasoning, compensating for the fact that the heavily chopped meat has a gummy texture. The table holds no sugar pot or hollowed-out cob roll for us to hide it, so we dig in. Hush’s classic steak tartare (£15), as opposed to a ‘chipotle’ version, stirs memories of the famous Mr Bean sketch, so far as it looks exactly the same as the raw beef burger that Rowan Atkinson’s character fruitlessly attempts to escape. A refreshing break from gravy, the garlic has profound depth of flavour, enough to clear a packed train carriage, after eating, with just one sharp breath. First, a large humble Yorkshire pudding (£5) is joined by a silky smooth puree of caramelised garlic. Perhaps inspired by the weather, we select a number of small bites in order to sample a vaster slice of the menu. In addition, a number of pasta dishes and small, tapas-style, sharing plates are also on offer. Classic dishes such as whole Dover Sole, sirloin Tagliata and a hamburger (with or without truffled brie) are joined by contemporary spins, including duck confit shepherd’s pie. A sounder of guests’ choice to smoke cigarettes between mouthfuls is borderline infuriating, but the whole set up transports me to a cobbled, backstreet piazza in Rome, 1100 miles away from central London.Īs for the food, the menu at Hush is so eclectic it seems to take forever to decide on a simple order, requesting numerous recommendations. Elsewhere, white parasols thwart sun burn, but flood the starched table linen and heavy wicker dining chairs with natural light. A hidden oasis, the outdoor dining space at Hush is notably bedecked with lurid green plastic grass possibly sourced from the same warehouse as Mickey Rourke’s new face. Making the most of the rare brilliant sunshine, we choose to sit outside, on the restaurant’s secluded courtyard. The new refurbishment has brought a flamboyant twist to the space’s décor, whilst maintaining the restaurant’s central ethos of being a “private members’ club without the membership.” A hidden gem, situated off the beaten track on Lancashire Court, Hush has been a Mayfair mainstay for eighteen years, having recently undergone a facelift under the watchful eye of Russell Sage.

Take a closer look – past the seventeen year olds tearing around Berkeley Square in Daddy’s gold-wrap Range Rover, you’ll find some of the city’s best small art galleries, shops and (most importantly) restaurants.
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Nowadays, this part of the city has become far more inviting, particularly for young people with creative professions. As recently as five or six ago, Mayfair was once London’s least accessible area, exclusively reserved for those either “in the know”, or with a spinal stenosis surgeon on speed dial, to compensate for lifting heavy wallets or Dover Street Market shopping bags.
